Last year, we got the news. After 25 years, we would finally be able to travel to the Schengen Area without restrictions. But truth be told, my best friend and I were initially very skeptical. After all, living in the political landscape of Kosovo taught us that nothing is for certain.
She and I always loved traveling. It’s one of the things that bonded us. And I say traveling, but I should really say the idea of traveling. We used to list all the countries we would see together and the places we would explore, but on some level, we both thought it was just a dream. I even had people tell me it would never happen because we lived in Kosovo, and that traveling is a privilege reserved only for people in the West.
And that was true, to a degree. Not everyone who lived in the West had the financial means to travel and see the world, of course, but if they had the money, they wouldn’t need to worry about the rest. Their passports are more powerful.
Conversely, we in Kosovo lived in an isolated country. It wasn’t impossible to travel from Kosovo, but the time it took was excruciating. It was also very expensive and unless you were wealthy, it wasn’t worth it to apply for a visa, even if you planned to backpack across Europe.
Prague, interrupted
A couple of years ago we had a chance to study for six months in one of Europe’s most beautiful cities, Prague. The second we received our acceptance email, we started planning all the things we would do and places we would see: Charles Bridge, Prague Castle, the beautiful Klementinum National Library, the Astrological Clock and so much more.
Getting there, however, was no easy task. Even though we were going on a student exchange and applying for a student visa, the application procedure was difficult. On top of all the documents we had to submit and additional expenses, we had to go all the way to Skopje to apply because visa processing was done by the Czech embassy in Skopje rather than the one in Prishtina. And even when everything was good to go, we had to wait for another two months to hear back from the embassy.
Still, we decided we would not let this shake our excitement, and in those high spirits, student visas in hand, we started planning a spring break trip from Prague to Italy. Little did we know that fate had other plans for us.
When we came back from our exchange, we felt stuck, as did most young people in Kosovo.
A couple of weeks after we finally got to Prague, the world went into lockdown. Our worried families called and begged us to return before it was too late. The trip to Italy was not going to happen, the city we were so excited for turned into a ghost town and our classes that originally were going to be held in Charles University’s beautiful spaces were now online — but Prague was as breathtaking as ever.
We were determined that not even the COVID-19 pandemic could ruin this. Somehow, without all the city noise and the tourist crowds, Prague looked even better. Walking the empty streets, crossing Charles Bridge, just us two, made it more intimate. It felt like Prague was just ours.
When we came back from our exchange, we felt stuck, as did most young people in Kosovo. It was funny, in a way, how isolated we felt being back in Kosovo. Technically, we had spent the whole time in Prague in lockdown, but we felt free there. Perhaps it was the understanding that the lockdown was going to be temporary, whereas our country’s isolation felt endless, with us being unsure as to when we would be free to travel again.
Rome, here we go
But then, last year we got the news and everything changed. We were going to be able to travel visa-free. January 2024 came around and people started flying about, traveling or visiting relatives all around Europe. My best friend and I decided to wait a bit before planning our trips, as if to see first if others would be successful. Soon, we got to work.
Picking Italy as our destination was a no-brainer, but picking which city was a bit more difficult. The capital city, though a little cliched, seemed like the most natural conclusion. As it was going to be our first time in Italy, Rome checked all our boxes: romantic and artistic appeal, gorgeous architecture, ancient history and warm weather. We booked our flights, organized the accommodation, and made a list of everything we wanted to do. It consisted of:
Some people complain about airports and how tiring flying is, but to me, flying again and going to a new city was exciting. The plane ride was short and went by in a heartbeat. We were giddy and stressed at the same time.
Although I knew it was irrational, I was so scared that at any point someone might stop us and take us back.
I kept thinking of all the things that could go wrong. Although I knew it was irrational, I was so scared that at any point someone might stop us and take us back because we maybe didn’t follow all the protocols, or maybe the border guards wouldn’t be informed and wouldn’t recognize the passport, or maybe they would ask for more proof — funds, insurance, accommodation, return tickets — and if any were missing, they would not let us through.
I couldn’t help it. I was so used to the isolation, that the fact that this was now possible felt like a dream. I told my friend I couldn’t let myself get excited and accept it was real until we got to the hostel. We arrived right before midnight, checked in, paid the city tax and went straight to our room. Relieved that the tough part was over and we made it in one piece, I breathed a sigh of relief. We went to bed, but neither of us could sleep. Smiling ear to ear, we talked about everything we were going to see in the next two days until we fell asleep.
It was still winter when we went, but Rome was warm and sunny. With the weather on our side, we started our journey. Walking to the city center, we found ourselves stopping at random cathedrals and churches, or works of art in hidden corners.
Unshockingly, we heard quite a bit of Albanian, so in that sense, it was like being back home.
Right outside our hostel, we had a view of Porta Maggiore. A short 40-minute walk later, we were at the Colosseum. We walked a little more, and the Roman ruins and Quirinal Palace greeted us. We stumbled into all the other beautiful locations by accident. The Spanish Steps, the Four Fountains, Trevi Fountain. The city is simply full of history and art, and it was impossible to take a wrong turn.
My favorite part, beyond the art and archeology? The size of it all, and the vast green spaces, something that we could really use more of in Kosovo. Unshockingly, we heard quite a bit of Albanian, so in that sense, it was like being back home.
On our way back, no one questioned our passports or asked for visas. We scanned our tickets, got our passports stamped, and that was it. But this time around, when we came back, it felt different. We were back in Kosovo, but we were already making plans for our next trips. Who knew that dreams could come true?
All roads lead to …
Soon, I’ll be flying from Prishtina to another city in Europe with my best friends, ready for our next adventure, looking forward to exploring the beauties of a new culture.
As for the question “Would I recommend it to someone else,” I ask K2.0 readers to give me some time. Let me travel some more, and I’ll get back to you on that, with a list of all the best places to see and the things to do.
Feature Image: Atdhe Mulla / K2.0.
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