“The Return of Karl May, an entertaining play for the German people” premiered at the National Theatre of Kosovo on Friday, October 18. The play is as agitating as the title suggests, touching a raw nerve, as it takes on the demonizing approach of Western Europe toward the Balkans.
Under the direction of Blerta Neziraj and written by the famed, award-winning Kosovo playwright Jeton Neziraj (husband of Blerta), the superiority complex of Europe is dismantled by resurrecting the famous German author Karl May’s fantasies about Albanians and attacking the “Muslim Foreigners” trope prevalent in today’s Europe with sharp sarcasm and comical absurdist scenarios.
Karl May is still, nearly a 100 years after his death, one of the bestselling German authors of all time. Over 300 pulp fiction novels spanned everything from American Westerns to Balkan adventures. May, who came from a poor family and was entirely self-made, never traveled to many of the places he wrote about, including the Balkans. To this day, he is still widely read in Germany and is considered a national treasure.
The curtain raiser
“Your country can’t even be found on Google maps. You are a troubled country, with unresolved conflicts and we do not want to bring them onto the stage of our theater … our stage is reserved for civilized countries with a theatrical tradition over 500 years …, “ the cynical words of the artistic director of Berlin Volksbühne, Klaus von Dörr, echo through the projected video call across the National Theater of Kosovo and with these scripted words the play between fiction and reality is opened.
For their visit to Berlin he invited the six actors and the playwright Jeton Neziraj, to perform on the side-stage of the theater. The German public would not be interested in hearing critical words about the most adored German writer Karl May.

“Karl May” heavily satirizes the racist perceptions of Western Europeans about so-called “Muslim Easterners.” Photo: Atdhe Mulla / K2.0.
May, portrayed Albanians as barbaric uncivilized savages. Explaining away his racist depictions as “fiction.” von Dörr instead suggests that they do a play with authentic local themes based on rich folklore, sword dances, blood feuds, deadly ambushes and sworn virgins.
What appears as a public faux pas is in context a very well integrated stylistic decision made by Neziraj. Throughout the play, Neziraj stretches the gray zone between political criticism and entertaining cynicism in an assemblage of elaborate scenes and the restaging of the production process itself. “In reality collaboration with the Volksbühne was rewarding and von Dörr was enthusiastic about going to the core of Karl May’s depiction [of Albanians],” says Neziraj, with satire and biting wit, those mutual projections of East and West and the ignorance of one side toward the other is negotiated to its bitter extreme, yet always grounded in the crucibility of reality.
It is presented as a play within a play. In the secondary play, Kara Ben Nemsi, the protagonist of Karl May’s book “Through the Land of the Skiptars,” flees from the East heading toward the German lands with a group of actors. On their epic journey, they encounter controversial figures such as Peter Handke, Slavoj Žižek and the German right-wing terrorist group the “National Socialist Underground,” to end up finally performing on the side-stage of Volksbühne.
Resurrecting ‘Kara Ben Nemsi” and sending him back to his place of “origin” is a subversive act to spark awareness of the troubled depiction of Albanians in May’s literature that are imbued with racism and prejudice.

The production is a collaboration with the Volksbühne theater in Berlin and the National Theater of Kosovo and Qendra Multimedia. Photo: Atdhe Mulla / K2.0.
Neziraj, who has dealt with the legacy of May’s work previously, while working with the Volksbühne, felt the urge to get to the core of May’s works. Not the least because he sees a continuation of his depictions as social norms on how Germans perceive Albanians and people from the Balkans in general. “I am fascinated by the obsession Germans have with Karl May … and I believe that German society is not freed from the prejudices Karl May and others have sown with their literature on Albanians,” says Neziraj.
Karl May’s books were written at a time of empires, when Germans considered themselves superior to those allocated outside “Europe,” the underdeveloped East and uncivilized Muslims or as in this case barbaric Arnauts.
May’s continued popularity among Germans, leads Neziraj to believe that May’s fantasies about Albanians have become a social norm in Germany and beyond. A social norm that he aims to deconstruct.
The complex interwovenness of cultural inferiority is played out on stage through encounters with European border patrols, German embassy officials, and the Austrian police whose closed-border-policy is justified with arguments shockingly similar to May’s hundred years old projections.
Cultural ignorance
Neziraj sees ignorance as a root cause for this, which is why he believed that projects on “postness,” the idea of a theatrical experience beyond postmodernism, are crucial in order to defy stereotypes and see foreigners and Albanians in Western Europe beyond common perceptions.
Enacting it as subversive homage to the supposedly racial, cultural but also intellectual superiority of the West toward the Southeast in general, the play features subliminal messages.
Neziraj uses the now fashionable “postness” genre in European theaters and speaks of it using skillful (self-) mockery: “Our play will be somewhere between “post-migrant theater” and “capitalist realism,” or perhaps it can be more closely defined as “post-truth theater” … something like that, though I’m still not quite sure … But regardless, you can be certain that we are doing something very important,” Neziraj’s script reads.

Because of the pandemic it has not been shown in the West yet but the playwright, Jeton Neziraj hopes that will happen soon depending on the pandemic. Photo: Atdhe Mulla / K2.0.
Indeed, a few theaters across Europe increasingly direct their attention toward critically dealing with imperialist legacies. At its best it is a counterweight to the prevalent populist ideology today that is cultivated by right-wingers without defense within the parliament, big publishing houses and theatres.
“Karl May” came into being out of the joint interest across the transnational theater world to pose moral questions on this imperialist legacy.
The production of the play began in 2019 as part of the Volksbühne-initiated program “Postwest” working with the National Theater of Kosovo and Qendra Multimedia.
Designed as a transcultural festival, the Volksbühne under the curation of Alina Aleshenko, invited six theater companies from the South East region to collaborate and stage plays in Berlin that revert the gaze “the West” holds toward what is considered “the East.” Due to the pandemic, the program was transmitted only digitally. The Kosovar ensemble presented a collage of scenes as a Video on Demand on the Postwest online platform in June.
Reverting the Gaze
The play takes us on an adventourus journey toward the “the European land,” which as explained by Slavoj Žižek’s words in the idyllic countryside of Ljubljana, the Sava river marks the official border between the Balkans and Mitteleuropa, the “real Europe.”
“Although both sides look the same, beware … on the one side, horror, oriental despotism, women get beaten, get raped and like it … on the European side, civilization, women get beaten and raped but do not like it,” Žižek’s character says in the play.
The closer they get to EU borders the more they are confronted with violent paranoia. Approaching Croatia, the group is sent away with the words “Roma and frogs are instructed to use other means of transport, such as caravans, swimming or running.”
The group appears as an entertaining caravan moving through the lands of hostility. The closer they get, the more dim morbidity is substituted by lighthearted sarcasm. At the Austrian border, Yll Bardhi, playing a kinky police men, hisses sexually at Arta Mucaj who plays a refugee, spitting in her face “Stop you filthy Muslim, stop or I will shoot you,” Morina almost immerses himself into this role — Mucaj plays her character as full of terror — until another actor interrupts the scene right on time.
Interruptions happen frequently on stage, an integral part of the play that uses the reconstruction of the rehearsal process itself as the basic line of narration. Scenes intercut with improvisations and frequent discussions over how to enact the story “correctly.” The play within a play helps to structure the bulk of the social commentary that jumps between time and place.